Get your kicks on NH-66

National Highway 66, commonly referred to as NH 66 (erstwhile NH-17 and a part of NH-47), is a mostly 4 lane 1,608 km (999 mi) long busy National Highway that runs roughly north–south along the western coast of India, parallel to the Western Ghats. It connects Panvel (a city south of Mumbai) to Cape Comorin (Kanyakumari), passing through the states of Maharashtra, Goa, Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu.

This a blogpost about my travels on NH66.

Post Covid, my bucket list of travel was full of places that I missed traveling during the pandemic lockdown. I completed checking out my travel list in four trips with a travel theme of "Beaches and Temples", four trips of 14-17 days each spanning over last 4 months. These recent pleasure trips with the theme "Beaches and Temples" were along the west coast of India from Kokan region of Maharashtra to Coastal Karnataka, Kerala and Kanya Kumari (southern tip of India). Each trip was distinct in a way that I took almost all forms of transports, from SUV, Car, 2-wheeler, train and flights travelling to various places. 

Mar 6 - 16   

Pune-Mumbai-Chipi-Malvan-Vengurla-North Goa-Mopa-Pune 

Jan 30 - Feb 12 

KanyaKumari - Coastal Kerala ( Thiruvanantapuram, Kochi, Varkala )

Dec 20 -Jan 7 

Coastal Karnataka and Goa

Dec 7-14  

Coastal Kokan 

During these trips I could explore the nature in true sense, in the process of exploring myself. It was a great invigorating and rejuvenating experience for myself, that gave me a new perspective of life. I captured over 1000 short videos during these travels and have posted them in around 25 different albums on my Facebook page. 

The reason for blogging about these travels is, because I realized that these travels truly helped me discover myself and hence I should share the joy with all. I met many interesting people. I discovered the power of sea waves in calming the soul and the fact these travels and the roads were truly the source of energy than the destination per se. I just wanted to share this thought and hence the "show" of "travel blog." 

I am planning to write a series on these travels as a separate blog series, but that would take time. Have posted some videos on YouTube and would be posting more such high-definition videos in future (once I get into the mood of doing so!) Meanwhile, enjoy the videos in raw form as they are on my YouTube channel and in my FB albums.

Please feel free to checkout / download any of the videos that I have posted in albums on:

 My Facebook page. :  https://www.facebook.com/PVBhave/photos_albums

 My YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/@pvbhave

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Individual albums on Facebook : 

Chipi Bhogwe Malvan : https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2411628408997282&type=3

Aaryavarta Beach Resort: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2412335745593215&type=3

Sindhudurga Fort and Malvan Rameshwar Mandir: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2413088505517939&type=3

Boat ride in deep sea and Dolphins sightings : https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2413051385521651&type=3

Vengurla : https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2414492775377512&type=3 

Goa 2023 March : https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2416596815167108&type=3

Drives on Two wheeler in Rural North Goa : https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2419016064925183&type=3

Kanya Kumari - Vivekanandapuram : https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2386479398178850&type=3

Coastal Kerala:  https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2387544921405631&type=3

Train Journeys : https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2311161412377316&type=3

Selfie Album : https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2396075647219225&type=3

Road Trip videos Coastal Karnataka to Goa : https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2358865677606889&type=3

Udupi Beaches : https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2358944747598982&type=3

Visit to St Mary's Island: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2358990954261028&type=3

Udupi Shree Krishna Temple: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2358814680945322&type=3

Murudeshwar : https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2358790220947768&type=3

Gokarna Beach Stay : https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2358985294261594&type=3

Goa Temples and Favorite places:  https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2362466857246771&type=3

Coastal Kokan Trip December 2022 : https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2343623879131069&type=3

Complete Coastal Karnataka-Goa trip Videos and photos shot on FitSpark Pro camera : https://www.facebook.com/media/set?vanity=PVBhave&set=a.2369038636589593

My yearly sojourns to Goa !

This is the first time in over last 5 years (or even more ) that I have not been to Goa for an year ! My November is invariably spent in Goa. The Covid pandemic this year has prevented my travels, official as well as leisure ! 

I have explored Goa , north to south , east to west. I am especially fond of Madgaon , Panjim and Mapusa. During 2000-2002 , I lived in Wilmington, North Carolina. I find a glaring similarity between the cities of Wilmington and Panjim-Vasco area especially in terms of geography where a river meets the sea.. a port .. an airport and the calm pace in life on the coast.

I must mention clearly here that visiting Goa once a year is a bliss and fun, staying there for too long may not be so !

Here are links to albums and blogs, I have written every November during my yearly sojourn to Goa and Surashree Kesarbai Kerkar Classical Music Festival.

2019

Visit to Goa and Surashree Kesarbai Kerkar Samaroh :  Ponda

2018

Annual Sojourn to Goa : 38th Surashree Kesarbai Kerkar Samaroh : Panjim 

Has links to many other Facebook albums and blog posts related to Goa visits of past.

2017

November to Remember : Surashree Kesarbai Kerkar Samaroh : Goa  

2016  

Surashree Kesarbai Kerkar Sangit Samaroh : Panjim Goa 

Viva Goa : Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary 

Missing my yearly visit to Goa in 2020 due to Covid pandemic. Hope to be back on the seashore in November 2021 !

Jamaica Farewell - नको वळून बघू - माझे राणी

 Some songs are like a "Khyaal" of classical music .. they have a capacity to bring out huge novels and stories through their words and tunes. They make us visualize a story instantly... a story that runs like a movie in front of ones eyes !

This blog is about three such songs, one in English and one in Marathi .. and a related song in Konkani.. I am  searching for songs in other languages with similar themes. 

Jamaica Farewell in English and "नको वळून बघू माघारी"  in Marathi have a kind of similar theme described from two sides, one on land and one on sea !! I had blogged about these two songs and their relationship earlier in 2018, that could be found here. (Jamaica Farewell - नको वळून बघू )

These two songs from two different languages depict a theme / story / " ख्याल" with a theme of missing a loved one at the shore while on sea. To me, a picture of Goa comes to mind instantly as the lover misses his "girl" as he is away on the sea and would not be back for many days. The Marathi song on the other hand describes the thoughts of the "little girl" left behind on shore by her lover ! 

That "Kingston" from Jamaica Farewell is definitely close to "राजापूर" of Konkan - Goa ! 

I want to add a third song to this theme, a song in Konkani - Marathi " माझे राणी " that is more positive where the lover arrives back searching for his "beloved"  queen after a long .. They finally meet and the circle is complete!

"माझे राणी माझे मोगा " 

माजे रानी, माजे मोगा
तुजे दोळ्यांत सोधता ठाव !
माजे राजा, माजे मोगा
तुजे नावाक जोडता नाव
फुलाफुलांक पुशीत आयलो
तुजे माजे प्रीतिचो गाव

काळ्याकाळ्या दोळ्यांन्‌ तुज्या
माज्या वाटा वाटा मेळतात माका
तुज्या छातीर ठेवता माथा
फुलाभाशेन भाशेन हलकी दुखा
तुजे पायान रुपता काटा
माजे काळजाक लागता घाव !
फुलाफुलांक पुशीत आयलो
तुजे माजे प्रीतिचो गाव

तुजे दोळ्यांत सोधता ठाव !
माजे राजा, माजे मोगा
तुजे नावाक जोडता नाव
गोर्‍या गोर्‍या रंगांन तुज्या
गोर्‍या गोर्‍या रंगांन तुज्या
माज्या दोळ्यांक दोळ्यांक चांदन्या राती
तुज्या ओठांर सपना माजी
माजे गाणे गाणे होऊन येती
तुजे भितुर माजे मना
दर्यावेल्या किरणांचो भाव
फुलाफुलांक पुशीत आयलो
तुजे माजे प्रीतिचो गाव

माजे रानी, माजे मोगा
तुजे दोळ्यांत सोधता ठाव !
माजे राजा, माजे मोगा
तुजे नावाक जोडता नाव
फुलाफुलांक पुशीत आयलो
तुजे माजे प्रीतिचो गाव  

 माजे रानी, माजे मोगा
तुजे दोळ्यांत सोधता ठाव !

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गीत : शांता शेळके
संगीत : हृदयनाथ
स्वर : लता , सुरेश वाडकर
----------

Original song from Film Mahananda 

One more version in Konkani 

 

 नको वळून बघू माघारी

नको वळुन बघू माघारी
जा रे खुशाल दर्यावरी

तुझ्या नि माझ्या प्रीतिची रे संगती
घेऊन शिदोरी आठवणींची

तुझी लाडकी उनाड होडी
बघुन समिंदर होइल वेडी
आणि तयाला कवळायाला सारखी घेइल उडी
त्या क्षणी याद तुला येऊन माझी जाशिल कळवळुनी

नाही सोबती तुझ्या संगती
एकटाच तू दर्यावरती
बघुन तुला रे येतिल वरती रत्‍नं सुंदर किती
त्यामधे नाही तुझी राणी, पाहुनी होशिल खिन्‍न मनी

कशी खुळी ती आभाळातुनी
नक्षत्रं ही तुला हेरूनी
डोळे मोडुनि नाचुनी चमकुनी
येतिल खाली जरी रे
आठवेल रे झोपडीतली मिणमिणती चांदणी 

--------
गीत : मो. ग. रांगणेकर
संगीत : केशवराव भोळे
स्वर : ज्योत्स्ना भोळे
----------

Jamaica Fairwell
by Harry Belafonte

Down the way where the nights are gay
And the sun shines daily on the mountain top
I took a trip on a sailing ship
And when I reached Jamaica I made a stop

But I'm sad to say I'm on my way
Won't be back for many a day
My heart is down, my head is turning around
I had to leave a little girl in Kingston town

Down the market you can hear
Ladies cry out while on their heads they bear
'Akey' rice, salt fish are nice
And the rum is fine any time of year

But I'm sad to say I'm on my way
Won't be back for many a day
My heart is down, my head is turning around
I had to leave a little girl in Kingston town

Sounds of laughter everywhere
And the dancing girls sway to and fro
I must declare my heart is there
Though I've been from Maine to Mexico

But I'm sad to say I'm on my way
Won't be back for many a day
My heart is down, my head is turning around
I had to leave a little girl in Kingston town

Here is a link to my playlist of  "Jamaica Farewell" in different versions performed by various artists ..

I have been listening to these songs since quite long. They are from old times ... 1950s-60s or so... but seem so fresh all the time ! Truly Classics !

Jamaica Farewell 

Visit to Goa and Surashree Kesarbai Kerkar Samaaroh 2019

Every November finds me in Goa , one of the reasons being the Surashree Kesarbai Kerkar Sangeet Samaaroh. The venue for this year was Ponda's Rajiv Gandhi Kala Mandir instead of the beautiful Kala Academy of Panjim. This gave me a chance to explore South Goa beaches , Madgaon ( Margaon ) and Ponda region.
The Highlights of my Goa trip of November 2019 were 
1) 39th Surashree Kesarbai Kerkar Samaaroh , Ponda Goa 2019
2) Curtain raiser event of symposium on Jaipur Gharana
3) Beautiful beaches of South Goa
4) Exploration of wonderful Madgaon and Ponda area
5) Hospitality of some of the best hotels and restaurants of South Goa
6) Wonderful traditional veg food

Here is a link to the FB album of 2019 Goa Trip

I decided to attend only certain chosen events and concerts during the festival. The important one being the Curtain Raiser event on the gayaki of Jaipur Gharana. Among the concerts I chose the morning concerts on Saturday and Sunday giving a pass to rest.
My favorite performances during the festival were that of upcoming local artist Subhash Parwar , whose style and tonal quality seemed like that of Abhisheki bua. Pt Narendra Nath Dhar 's Todi and Charukeshi on Sarod , Vid Shubhada Paradkar ( who has training from Gwalior, Kirana, Agra and Jaipur gharana ) presenting in Agra Style , Shuddha Sarang and Pancham were notable performances that concluded the morning session.

The morning session on Sunday was special due to performance by Shri Mahendra Toke ( Indore Gharana ) who was trained directly under Ut Amir Khan, presenting Shuddha Sarang and Bhimpalas in the classical Jhumara taal in madhya lay ! The evening session was marked by upcoming young talented artist from ITC Sangeet Research Academy ,Omkar Dadarkar who seemed to have a mix influence of Gwalior , Jaipur and Agra presenting wonderful Bhimpalas and Marwa.
Many clips of these performances could be enjoyed in this FB album here.

The symposium on Jaipur Gharana and gayaki was one of the most interesting , enlightening  and worth attending. It gave an understanding of the intricacies and depth of true Jaipur gayaki and gharana.

For me, the key takeaways from the Symposium on Jaipur Gharana were following :
1) The roots of Jaipur Gharana are in the three "baanis" of Dhrupad gayaki. Earlier singers of Jaipur were Dhrupadiyas and many of the bandishes are derived from Dhrupad bandishes. Even many of the later years Khyaal bandishes have roots in their respective Dhrupad bandishes.
2) It is highly disciplined gayaki and gharana. There are strict rules of even training (Talim) by gurus. The gurus are highly disciplined and strict. No variations are tolerated easily.
3) Alaap , Boltaan , taans is the sequence of progression of Raag, Balance of Sur and taal is critical in the progression.
4) Typically a Raag is not extended beyond 30 mins
5) The taan patterns are "vakra" (twisty) and not "sapaat" ( flat ) , meaning , they are not really in order of arohi or avarohi swar sequences.
6) They have special Jod Raags , Anvat Raags, Mishra Raags that are distinct from the raags that they are made from  e.g  Shuddha Kalyan ( Bhup and Yaman ) , Maru-Bihag , Basanti - Kedar etc

Here are the recordings / Clips from the first part of symposium on Youtube ( 7 short videos ) and the second part of symposium in many short clips on FB album

My views based on symposium :
a) Jaipur gayaki is the "Classical" of the Hindustani Classical Music. It is not easy to grasp , understand or even appreciate unless one is truly immersed in music. Hence many of the classical connoisseurs tend to be fans of Jaipur gayaki in later stage after listening to other gharanas. ( This is definitely the case with myself ! )
b) Jaipur gayaki is an expression in Khyaal but has characteristics of Dhrupad ( may be because of the roots in the three "baanis" of Dhrupad )
c) The traditional bandishes of Jaipur gharana are amalgamation of Dhrupad bandishes with lyrics of Khyaal. They have deep philosophy behind them and are precise in expressing certain philosophical ideas through precise words. The lyrics of bandishes of Jaipur gharana have high philosophical value and are very meaningful but stress the expression of "Bhaav" of the the Raag through musical patterns of aalaap and taans, often short phrases.
d) Jaipur gayaki is truly intellectual musical expression and is NOT for everyone !

Final note :
The "true" Jaipur gharana gayaki has become rare now. For excelling in this gayaki, intense  disciplined efforts and intense training (talim) is needed from right kind of guru for years. Very few singers who label themselves belonging to Jaipur - Atrauli gharana truly follow the traditional Jaipur gayaki. A general view in vouge is that , the current Jaipur gayaki is  diluted and made light by many of the singers in recent past. Some have introduced their own bandishes that dont match the philosophy and dhrupad tradition of Jaipur gayaki. Hence true Jaipur gayaki is preserved in only few currently living performers.  Vid Shruti Sadolikar-Katkar is one such true Jaipur ( and Haveli) performer and Teacher ( Guru ) who has preserved the tradition and continues to guide students.
  

Annual sojourn to Goa - 38th Surashree Kesarbai Kerkar Samaroha

Annual visit to Goa for Surashree Kesarbai Kerkar Mahotsav , in the first week of November, truly marked the beginning of festive season. Feast of classical music on Nov 2-3-4 was the beginning of the week that resulted into Diwali celebration Nov 5-6-7-8 .. food trails and leisurely walks along the beaches of Goa , visit to forts and also a night at casinos !

The 38th Surashree Kesarbai Kerkar Festival began with a curtain raiser titled "Indian Classical Music and its Aesthetics". This was one of the best interactive session and curtain raiser event in last 4-5 years of festival. The key takeaways were :
1) Virah ras is a dominant ras in ICM
2) "Nayika" is the key player in a Bandish
3) Most bandishes are "Female oriented" ( स्त्रीवादी ) and explore the mind of the "nayika" , though the bandishes are written mostly by males!
4) The general "bhaav" of a thumri is common .. mostly romantic
5) The ultimate goal of Sangit or ICM is Anand (आनंद ) , achieve Bramhanand ( ब्रह्मानंद ), Kaivalyanand ( कैवाल्यानंद )
6) Creativity in ICM is most important , it goes through four stages generally : Copying the guru- Imitation , Inspiration , Imbibation and then creation

The main festival was in 5 session over three days. The first session was on Friday , Nov 2nd evening Arshad Ali Khan of Kirana , vocals kicked off with Puriya Kalyan and was followed by Pt Satish Vyas, santoor with Chandrakauns closing the evening.

Day 2 - Morning session
After the local artist Veena Mopkar's efforts at Lalat Pancham came the priced concert of Dr Arun Dravid , the first and foremost disciple of Gaansaraswati Kishori Amonkar, who presented Devgiri Bilawal and Khat - a Jaipur speciality.

Pt Vishwanath Kanhere with his singing harmonium entertained the connoisseurs with Bilaskhani Todi , Hindol-Bahar and a Sarang dhun to close the morning session 

Day 2 - Evening session 

Bharathi Pratap of Agra gharana started with Dhanaashree where her previous training in Carnatic style was apparent. She enthralled the audience with her spell binding Purvi alap and Nom-Tom, a trademark of Agra ! She concluded with a Tarana

 

Dhanashree Pandit Rai was next with her bouquet of Thumris.

Pt Arnab Chatterjee of Kirana started with Shree and concluded with Hansdhwani. A strong Patiala influence of sargam ( or may be Bengal influence) was apparent inspite of Kirana training.

The Final presentation of the evening was by Pt Kushal Das whose Sitar sang like a vocalist. The perfect soft accompaniment by Ut Mohd Akram Khan was icing on the cake. Bageshree alaap , Jod and Jhala concluded the evening.

Day 3 - Morning Session

The Sunday morning starter of the day was by Shobha Chaudhary who presented Nat-Bhairav , Bilaskhani Todi bhajan and Mishra Khambavati Thumri.

Anuradha Kuber of Bhendi Bazar gharana was delight of the morning, who presented crisp Bhupaal Todi and Vrundavani Sarang.

Sarangiya Ut Moinuddin Khan with accompaniment of Ut Mohd Akram Khan on Tabla was a concert that made the Sunday morning worthwhile on the banks of Mandovi. They presented Nat-Bhairav and concluded with Bhairavi that brought a kind of serenity.

Day 3-  Evening session 
After the opening concert effort by a local artist  ( that was worth a miss and should have been dropped to give more time to senior artists that were to follow ), came a young and promising Agra torchbearer , Waseem Ahemad Khan who presented the trademark Purvi alap and Nom-Tom , a madhyalay bandish "Paar Karo naiyya mori"(पार करो नैय्या मोरी ) and a rare Agra bandish "Mathura na Jayyo" (मथुरा न जैय्यो). With the applause of audience came an impromptu Barwa , an authentic Agra style presentation.

The final vocal concert of the festival was by Pt Kedar Bodas of Gwalior and Bhendi Bazar gharana,  who presented Bhoop-Kalyan , a tarana and a tappa in Khamaj.

I did not wait for the final concert of the festival, Instrumental Jugalbandi by Pt Kumar Bose and Vidwan Thiruvaarur Bakthavatsalam.

My observation about Surashree Kesarbai Festival over last 5 years is that it is a festival that brings together top class artists and concerts from diverse spread of gharanas. Also , the arrangements for audience and auditorium is excellent and world class. However , the quality of local audience and also their numbers is abysmally low.
The best part of the festival, as I mention every year, is the brilliant compere , Dr Roopa Chari. Her command over languages and rich store of words and philosophical anecdotes keeps the festival lively for all three days!
Looking forward to the 39th Surashree Kesarbai Kerkar Samaroh in November 2019 !
 Adieu ! Viva Goa ! 

Here are the links to various related clicks and clips :

38th Surashree Kesarbai Kerkar Samaroha-2018  - clicks and clips

Curtain raiser event : A Symposium "Indian Classical Music and its Aesthetics"

Beautiful Goa - 2018

37th Surashree Kesarbai Kerkar Samaroha - Album of year 2017 

36th Surashree Kesarbai Kerkar Samaroah Album of 2016

Previous Blogposts of year 2017 and Blogpost of year 2016     

Pt Jitendra Abhisheki Festival Sept 2017 and misc photos

Viva Goa 

Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary 

Goa - Miramar, Panji, Don Paula 2016